Diamonds - The 4 C's Color, Clarity, Cut, and Carat

There are four qualities of a stone. Together these determine its quality. The qualities are Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat. Each one is important and can add or subtract dramatically from the price of a stone. The single most important quality however may be color. A larger, poor color quality diamond will be less valuable then a smaller superior graded stone.

Cut

When a diamond is first brought from the ground, it looks like nothing more then a shiny pebble. The cut may be one of the most important factors to the diamonds beauty and value. The cut allows the diamond to bubble forth it’s true brilliance and fire. This is done buy the light being reflected from one facet to another then emanating the light through the top of the stone. The facets will be perfectly aligned with each other which allow for superior surface luster.

What's In A Cut?

The round or “brilliant” cut diamond, has 58 facets (33 on top, 24 on the bottom plus the bottom point called the culet), and has traditionally been the most popular style of engagement rings. The brilliant cut allows for the diamond’s brilliance to reflect light back up through its top. This cut was invented in the late 17th century by an Italian jeweler.

The Sublime Brilliant Cut

Two of the most important factors are a stone’s depth percentage and table size:

The depth percentage: according to the American Gem Society standard, the height of a diamond compared to the stone’s diameter should be approximately 59%. If the depth percentage is smaller, then the stone may look too short. If it exceeds that number, then the diamond may appear too chunky.

The table size: the table is the flat top of the diamond (otherwise known as its face). The ideal table diameter is 53 to 57% percent of the stone’s entire diameter. A stone with a 60% figure is considered excellent by many gemologists, but a stone that has a table percentage that is higher than 64% is likely to lack brilliance, therefore lacking in value. When the table is too small, the diamond may look dark and lack brilliance.

Generally, some gemologists recommend the 60/60 rule: a diamond with approximately a 60% depth percentage and a 60% table percentage.


What Is An Ideal Cut?

Diamonds are rated in 11 categories ranging from AFS 0 (ideal) to AGS 10 (poor). This grade system has been established by the American Gem Society and considers a number of factors. Deciding factors include symmetry of facets, size, combination of angles and polish of the stone.

Fancy Cuts

Any cut besides the “round” brilliant cut can be considered a “fancy cut”.

Baguettes: smaller rectangular cut stones that look like tapered boxes, usually used as accent stones

Emerald Cut: looks like a box or rectangle with truncated corners

Heart: heart shaped

Marquise: resembles a football or “diamond” shape

Oval: elongated, appears elliptical viewed from the top

Pear-Shaped Cut: shaped like a tear drop

Princess Cut: a square brilliant cut

Trilliant Cut: a thin, triangular cut that has extra facets, can provide high brilliance

The type of cut will also determine the brilliance that you receive from it. A well cut diamond will allow light to enter it, reflect light among it’s many facets and bounce the light back out. A poorly cut diamond will allow light to enter the stone, but instead of reflecting the light, it will travel outside the stone through the sides or bottom. This leaves the stone appearing dull and lacking brilliance.

The dimensions of a brilliant cut stone include the table, crown, girdle, pavilion and culet which determine the height of the stone. In this area, it is best to rely on your own eye and choose the diamond with the most “sparkle”.

Color

The less color a diamond has, the more valuable it is. In recent years “fancy” diamonds of many different colors (pink, yellow, brown, green, blue) have become popular. These diamonds, being very rare, tend to be expensive.


How To Grade Color?

Diamonds are rated on a scale from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow) by the Gemological Institute of America’s (GIA) color-grading system:

D, E or F: “colorless,” the rarest and most expensive.

G, H, I and J: “near colorless,” have a slight tint when compared with higher-grade stones. Most popular range for engagement rings. G- and H-rated stones are good values, color is subtle and often isn’t noticeable, much less expensive than the higher grades.

K to M: “faint yellow”, have a yellowish or brownish tint. Lower end of the scale, markedly reduced price and value.

M to R: "very light yellow", lower end of the scale, markedly reduced price and value.

S to Z: "light yellow", lower end of the scale, markedly reduced price and value.

When viewing stones, ask to be shown stones of various color ratings. Look at them side by side and you will be able to see the color difference.
TIP: turn the diamond over so that the flat side is down and the pointed side is up. You will be able to better determine if the diamond has a yellowish tinge to it. Viewing the diamond upside down will allow you to see the true color of the diamond by limiting the “sparkle”. Do not be afraid to ask the jeweler to view the diamond in the natural sunlight, this will allow you to see the stone’s true color.


Clarity

Diamonds are “born” in the ground. Because of this almost all diamonds will have tiny flaws. These flaws can block the light and decrease the stone’s beauty.

If the flaw is internal, it is called an “inclusion”. They may consist of:

Dark spots (carbon) or colorless crystals
Tiny cracks called feathers
White specks called pinpoints


If the flaw is on the surface, it is called a blemish. They may consist of:

Chips, Nicks, Scratches

All flaws taken into consideration along with the type, size, amount and position of flaws determine the clarity, grade and value of a diamond.

How To Judge A Diamond's Clarity?

Most jewelers use the GIA grading system for classifying clarity:

FL: “flawless” no internal inclusions or surface imperfections under 10x magnification.

IF: “internally flawless”, minor surface blemishes.

VVS1 to VVS2: “very, very slight inclusions”, very difficult to detect.

VS1 to VS2: “very slightly included”, flaws may be seen under magnification.

SI1 to SI2: “slightly included”, minor flaws visible under magnification but not easily identifiable.

I1, I2, I3: “included/imperfect”, flaws are visible to the naked eye.

Diamonds in the SI1 category, and sometimes the SI2 category often are good values as they contain flaws that are invisible to the naked eye, but drive down prices.

FL quality is extremely rare and expensive. A stone of clarity VVS1 and a stone of clarity SI2 can look exactly identical to the naked eye. The difference in price can be quite dramatic.


Carat

The term “carat” is the traditional measuring unit of a diamond’s size and refer’s to its weight. A carat weighs 1/5 of a gram or 1/142 of an ounce. When talking about stones, jewelers use a point system, a point is equal to 2 milligrams:

100 points = 1 carat

75 points = ¾ carat

50 points = 1/2 carat

Nationally, the average size of an engagement ring diamond is approximately ¾ of a carat. Approximately 90% of all diamonds ever mined weigh less than one carat. Diamonds weighing more then a carat are in the minority, hence the price/value of such a stone. Bigger is not always better. Watch for color and clarity as well to increase the value of the stone.

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